Beautiful Skin - How many products do you need? in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
16 May 2012 | 0 Comments

Part Three - Antioxidants - What is the evidence from Cosmetic Science by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
28 Apr 2012 | 0 Comments

Do the actual benefits of the antioxidants in the bottle live up promise.

As is often the case cosmetic science is some way off fully understanding the processes involved in free radical formation and the benefits of antioxidant formulations.

Theoretically wrinkles and an aging appearance result when the free-radical damage originates from natural environmental factors and fails to be ‘cancelled out’ by some amount of metabolic or applied antioxidant protection.

When thinking about topical preparations it is important to consider factors regulating the impact of the skincare product including ability to penetrate the skin, amount of an ingredient required to be effective and the time it takes to be effective.

None of us expect antioxidants to be a fountain of youth.

It is too early to say conclusively from the scientific evidence that antioxidants prevent or repair wrinkles.

However it is now generally accepted that the use of a quality antioxidant moisturiser, oil or serum as part of a daily beauty routine, is likely to reduce the impact of free radical damage.

The benefits of using a sun screen and simply being gentle with your skin in terms of environmental exposure have been well established.

So it is definitely worth making the effort now!

Sylvie xx

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Part Two - What do Antioxidants do and which are the best for your skin by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
25 Apr 2012 | 0 Comments

What do Antioxidants do?

It is believed that antioxidants in skincare are capable of penetrating into the deepest layers of skin tissue. Some experts believe antioxidants enable living skin cells to repair and renew. The end result is skin that looks and feels younger.

In theory antioxidants prevent the unstable oxygen molecules from interacting with other molecules (taking one of their electrons) and consequently causing them to become unstable, the process that starts the free-radical-oxidisation chain reaction.

Other reported benefits of attributed to antioxidants in skincare are:

Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time by making skin appear plump, supple and renewed’

Improve the tone of the skin by making it appear firmer and more vibrant; and

Reduce inflammation of the skin and helping the skin to look and feel healthy and luminous

The Best Antioxidants

Ingredients with antioxidant properties include:

Olive Leaf
Pomegranate
Rosemary
vitamins A, C, and E;
green and white tea;
glutathione;
beta carotene;
selenium;
coenzyme Q10; and
zinc

Sylvie xx

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Part One - Antioxidants In Skincare For Younger Looking Skin in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
22 Apr 2012 | 0 Comments

We hear a lot about so-called antioxidants in cosmetics.

I am a big fan of the rejuvenating effects natural ingredients such as Olive Leaf, White Tea and Pomegranate extracts, and Vitamin E and Cocoa Butter and Rosemary – all known for their antioxidant potential.

This is the first in three blogs that provide an update on the efficacy of antioxidant formulations in combating the effects of free radical damage.

While we do not yet thoroughly understand the scientific ‘how and why’, it is now fairly clear that free-radical damage is bad for the skin.

Free radical oxidation is the basis of the aging process because it causes permanent deterioration of the skin cell’s support structures, decreasing elasticity and resilience.

Cosmetic ingredients that act as antioxidants are thought to diminish or neutralise the impact of free radical damage by slowing down or blocking oxidation within a skin cell.

What is Free Radical Damage?

Oxidation caused by free radical processes operate at the level of atoms or molecules that make up skin cells.

Oxidation of skin cells by free radical activity may be caused by UV radiation, pesticides, air pollution, drugs, cigarette smoke, stress, and simply an unhealthy diet and lifestyle.

They are formed when an oxygen atom loses an electron. The loss of the electron makes the atom or molecule electrically unstable.

To regain stability, free radicals tend to capture electrons from the atoms of surrounding substances in a chain reaction that continues until stopped by an antioxidant.

These free radicals attack and damage healthy cells, such as those contained in our skin.

The overall result is cellular damage, alterations in the structure of the cellular membrane, and decreased skin elasticity and pliability.

As one would expect, sun and UV ray exposure intensifies the oxidation process and free radicals accumulate which over time leads premature ageing, sun-spots, blemishes, wrinkles and overall damaged and dry skin.

While the body has its own natural mechanism of protection from free radical induced damage, this protective capacity diminishes with age and when the body is exposed to conditions where the magnitude of free radicals formed overtakes the body's natural ability to neutralise them.

Sylvie xx

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The confusing issue of ‘natural' and ‘synthetic' ingredient claims in relation to cosmetics - Part 1 by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
1 Apr 2012 | 0 Comments

When choosing a product, we recommend that you always read the label, whether the product is a traditional or naturally oriented cosmetic or beauty care product.

It is especially important to read the fine print where a product claims to be ‘all natural' or ‘chemical free'.

SCOUT Cosmetics has a ‘common sense' balanced approach to the choice of ingredients and formulations.

Our products contain high quality natural ingredients and where we add ‘botanicals' or extracts we have chosen to use only certified organic where possible. If there is even a slight reasonable doubt about the safety of an ingredient we would not use it in a SCOUT product.

But remember, simply stating a product is "natural" does not tell you anything useful about the effectiveness of the ingredients contained in a product or whether it will agree with your individual skin.

So what about claims that 'Natural ingredients are always better than synthetic' – While a champion of the natural approach, I believe this is the wrong way to look at cosmetic ingredients as in reality there is no ‘all or nothing’ product approach.

The SCOUT Cosmetics philosophy is natural because we believe naturally sourced ingredients are often effective and make the best products (see Blog Post - Natural Versus Synthetic Ingredients).

As I often say at SCOUT clincis, please think about the ingredients list as well as the marketing claims.

Sylvie xx

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Aloe Vera – what is in it that makes it so wonderful? by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
29 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Aloe Vera is a star ingredient in SCOUT Daily C Treatment Gel due to its healing soothing, antibacterial and moisturising properties.

It has natural healing qualities on the scalp and skin.

Aloe Vera is used to relieve burning, itching, minor cuts and first and second degree burns.

But what is in it that makes it so wonderful and how can Aloe Vera benefit your skin?

Aloe Vera is classified as a medicinal plant and is part of the lily family.

While it has a significant water content it also contains an abundance of nutrients such as:

Vitamins and minerals;
Enzymes;
Saponins (soapy substances that provide antiseptic and mild cleansing abilities);
Amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein;
phenolic compounds, which contain antioxidant properties; and
lignin, chemical compounds found in plants which may help assist healing of damaged skin and increase blood flow.

The vitamins found in Aloe Vera include B complex, folic acid, vitamin C and Carotene.

Aloe Vera also contains salicylic acid which contains aspirin like compounds making it ideal for the treatment of minor burns.

Anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties also help reduce pain and the risk of infection.

When used topically, Aloe Vera may also help to increase oxygen to the skin layers which has been linked to a strengthening of skin tissues.

Because Aloe Vera can help retain moisture in the skin, it is great for all skin types, including dry.

And its unique moisturising properties can be of great benefit for oily and combination skin, for which oil based moisturisers may be too rich.

Sylvie xx

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Pomegranate – a key moisturising, anti-ageing and soothing antioxidant ingredient for skincare by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
27 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Pomegranate or Punica Granatum is a potent anti-oxidant & free-radical scavenger.

It is a key ingredient in SCOUT Pomegranate and White Tea Rejuvenating Crème as it is a strong natural anti-antioxidant with skin protecting, astringent and anti-inflammatory properties.

Pomegranate Liquid Extract is an entirely natural and pure active ingredient that excels as a moisturising, anti-ageing and skin restructuring agent in all skin care applications.

It is used in moisturiser formulations as it assists in the reduction of the appearance of age lines & wrinkles.

Effective hydrating agent it leaves the skin supple smooth and young looking. Also claimed that it stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin.

Pomegranate extract is pressed from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit which is rich in antioxidants, essential vitamins and minerals. Pomegranate is reported to have more antioxidant properties than red wine and green tea.

It is high in ellagic acid, an antioxidant which may also help combat free radical damage. It is also high in pnicic acid, a compound similar to linoleic acid (CLA).

It is also considered to possess anti-viral, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.

Products incorporating pomegranate may even help to relieve symptoms of eczema, psoriasis and sunburn.

Sylvie xx

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Skincare for Men – same products – different routine by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
26 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

SCOUT Cosmetic’s anti-oxidant skincare collection is suitable for men and women.

When formulating the range, I really wanted to make ‘multi-use products’ and for them to be suitable for both men and women - Unisex.

I have seen a few product stories and discussions lately about men’s grooming and there seems to be an accepted idea that men’s skin is materially different to women’s and therefore needs differently formulated skincare products.

While I am happy to celebrate the differences between women and men, when it comes to skincare, I think the idea of having dedicated skincare products is incorrect and overdone.

It is very important to use a high quality skincare product.

However, while men’s skin may be thicker and oilier, it is not the product that should be different but the skincare routine, frequency of use and general approach men adopt.

Different skins

There are important physical differences between men and women’s skin, including,

Besides having thicker more prominent facial hair, Androgen (testosterone) stimulation results in an increase in skin thickness in men. It is widely reported that a man’s skin is up to 25% thicker than a woman’s.
A man’s skin also thins gradually with age, whereas the thickness of a woman’s skin remains constant until about the age of fifty. After menopause, her skin will thin significantly, which will continue as she ages;
A man’s skin texture is also tougher.
There is also a difference in the composition of oil and its production. After puberty, oil secretion is greater in males than in females, which may explain why men have more prolonged periods of acne.
Regardless of age, men also have a higher collagen density than women. Because collagen content is directly related to the signs of skin aging, it has been reported a woman’s skin is about 15 years older than a man’s of the same age.
Men also sweat up to twice the amount of women and are more prone to sweating, which is stimulated by an increase in body temperature.

Are products really different

Not in my experience.

The ingredient lists are very much the same between so-called men’s and women’s products.

There does not appear to be any real evidence for the necessity to have separate formulations and it is more of a marketing ploy.

Caring for a man’s skin

Both men and women need to ‘restore - maintain - preserve – protect - their skin. But men do need a different approach to how they care for their skin:

Most men shave which provides daily exfoliation which can help keep skin softer and smoother. So their need for exfoliation is less than a woman and the focus should be only on areas away from the beard;
However, shaving can also cause ingrown hairs on the face and neck and irritating ‘shaving rash’. So an Aloe Vera based product is a perfect daily aftershave lotion to eliminate inflamed skin;
Unless a man gets very dirty in his work or playing sport, it is a good idea to avoid using bath soap on their face. I also find most men require less cleansing than a woman with weakly cleansing and daily shower water being sufficient except for those with oilier skin types;

Both men and women can enjoy using the same skincare products.

Sylvie xx

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Improve Your Skin Care Regime With These Fantastic New Cleansers by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
23 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

SCOUT Cosmetics Lemon Myrtle and Papaya Cleansing Crème has been featured on cutting edge Australian beauty, fashion and lifestyle website, Rescu

Beauty Commandment - Is it possible to over-exfoliating by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
22 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Absolutely.

One point I always emphasise at clinics and master classes is ‘be gentle to your skin’.

While squeaky-clean pores may initially feel good, "harsh cleansing or over-exfoliation can do three things:

Simply irritate or inflame your skin through the rigorous physical contact or abrasion;
Make your skin more prone to a reaction to the ingredients contained in the product you use; and
Actually stimulate your natural oil production and worsen breakouts by spreading bacteria.

Exfoliating is suppose to gently dislodge and remove dirt, dead cells and trapped oil from the skin by either chemical or mechanical means or both.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (‘AHA’s) are active ingredients such as Citric Acid and are used in moisturising creams, treatment facial creams, cleansers and face masks or peels.

Their use aims to minimise fine lines, reduce skin dis-colouration and blemishes and soften the appearance of flaws while making skin more supple and its texture smoother.

It is now well established that the exfoliation and the use of AHA’s, in combination with a well planned beauty routine, leads to long-lasting improvement to the appearance of skin.

However it is really important to know your skin and its subtle changes over time so you do not aggravate it in the process.

For instance, some women tell me their skin seems to be getting more sensitive as they age or because of a move to a new city.

A cleanser should also contain ingredients with healing soothing, antibacterial and moisturising properties such as Aloe Vera, Jojoba Oil or Rosehip to balance those for exfoliation.

Sylvie xx

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Spring and the safe, sun kissed look by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
19 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Spring is here and the warmer weather is just around the corner.

Given our busy outdoor lifestyles, I think we get more than enough sun during spring and summer without even trying.

So I have a simple alternative approach to achieving a bit of colour without the risks of sun tanning.

A little bronzer can be added to your favourite body cream for an all over sun kissed effect.

SCOUT Bronzer comes in two shades; Winter and Summer.

A bronzer lifts and brightens a sallow or simply too pale skin tone.

On your face, rather than using a darker foundation I sometimes like to use a bronzer to add a subtle ‘just had a holiday' brightness to the skin.

But remember, when using a bronzer to employ a light touch.

Everyone knows how bad it looks when someone has applied too much bronzer or too much fake tan.

So keep this in mind when applying a bronzer that you can always apply a little more if required.

Using your blush brush sweep onto your skin using a downward motion. We do this because the hair on your face grows downwards.

I have also mentioned this next tip at SCOUT Cosmetics clinics - "do not use bronzer as a blush as it can be ageing, unless you have a very dark complexion".

Sylvie xx

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Rosehip Oil – natural skin rejuvenation by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
14 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Rose hip oil is definitely a ‘hero’ ingredient in the natural cosmetics world.

I love its moisture retention, healing and soothing properties, qualities that made it a must have ingredient for our Daily C Plus Treatment Gel and Six Oils of Rejuvenation.

It has moisturising, emollient, anti-inflammatory properties and is high in omega-3 & omega-6 essential fatty acids & vitamin C.

The main potential for natural skincare and cosmetics are indications from traditional medicine that it helps to reduce and retard wrinkles, regenerate skin cells and improves the appearance of scars

In shampoos and conditioners there is the potential for it to relieve stress, poor circulation, soothe a sensitive scalp and skin and strengthen the hair shaft.

As an excellent natural source of vitamin C or ascorbic acid, it acts as an antioxidant, protects against infection and aids with tissue repair and cell development.

Rosehip oil also helps soothe dry and irritated skin whilst providing nourishment.

While Rosehip has been used for centuries, research on its effectiveness has only recently gathered momentum.

The limited reports to date indicate Rosehip oil has an anti-inflammatory and rehydration action but exactly how it works is yet to be explained.

Sylvie xx

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Beauty Commandment – Screening for Moles and Spots by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
13 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Let’s not forget that effective skincare is more than just looks – it’s good for your health.

Our skin matures over our life and we should all screen our skin regularly as we age for irregular changes to moles, legions and spots.

I often have to remind myself to make time for screening my skin because it is easy to lose track.

The Australasian College of Dermatologists suggests checking your skin every new season as an easy way of remembering and sets out how to go about it and what to look for.

And according to Cancer Council Australia, individuals at high risk of melanoma should have annual checks by a dermatologist.

So if you have or are worried about an increased numbers of unusual moles, a depressed immune system, a family history of melanoma, fair skin, a tendency to burn rather than tan, freckles, light eye colour, light or red hair colour or had a previous melanoma or non-melanoma skin cancer – have an annual check.

Sylvie xx

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Jojoba Oil – simple luxurious skincare by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
12 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

One of my absolute favourite skincare ingredients is Jojoba Oil.

Jojoba is a liquid wax from the Jojoba plant which is soothing, nourishing, rapidly penetrating and with emollient properties.

It has the ability to dissolve excess natural oil (Sebum) in the pore of the skin, allowing it to be washed away.

As an anti-inflammatory oil for dry, sensitive skin types, it also helpful with dermatitis, psoriasis and acne problem skin.

Rich in vitamin E it also contains a natural waxy substance that is very similar to the skin's natural collagen.

Importantly for those with allergies, Jojoba is a non-fragrant plant oil, the chemical composition of which is similar to human sebum (oil).

One of the great things about jojoba oil is that it a true multi-tasker. You can use it as a:

moisturiser,
hair conditioner
make-up remover, and even a
massage oil.

This is why we have included Jojoba in our

Sylvie xx

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Beauty Commandment - Love Your Neck and Chest by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
8 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

Your skincare regime does not stop at your jaw line.

Far from it, looking after the soft skin of your neck – down to the décolletage is really important for good health as well as to give you the confidence to vary your wardrobe, especially in summer.

These areas are almost always exposed and require the same amount and quality of hydration and sun protection as the face.

The skin there is delicate and just as vulnerable to photoaging.

Photoaging is damage done to the skin from prolonged exposure over a lifetime, to UV radiation. Many of the skin changes that occur as we age, such as dark spots, wrinkles and broken blood vessels, are accelerated by photoaging from sun exposure.

So the next time you apply a moisturiser, serum or sunscreen or give yourself an exfoliating treatment, gently extend your regime to the neck and down to your décolletage.

Remember, a good beauty routine is about simplicity: restore - maintain - preserve - protect the skin.

Sylvie xx

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Eczema Awareness Week 5-11 September 2011 by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
7 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

I know many people with allergies and skin conditions.

Did you know that eczema, asthma and hay fever are somehow related?

This week is Eczema Awareness Week in Australia.

Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is a recurring, non-infectious, inflammatory skin condition.

I have long suspected that certain synthetic ingredients and perfumes contained in mainstream soaps, shampoos and washing powders, cosmetics and toiletries could be related to skin irritations.

This was a key reason SCOUT Cosmetics was born.

I just heard a great interview on Radio National Breakfast about the causes, increased prevalence and treatment of eczema with Dr Li-Chuen Wong, a Dermatologist at the Westmead Children's Hospital in Sydney.

According to the Eczema Association of Australasia, up to 20 percent of children develop eczema under the age of five, as do 10 percent of adults.

But what confounds doctors is why the condition has worsened over the past 25 years.

Want to learn more? Or listen to the interview?

Sylvie xx

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Rescue Covers Scout Cosmetics Natural Skincare Range Launch by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
1 Sep 2011 | 0 Comments

As featured on cutting edge Australian beauty, fashion and lifestyle website, Rescu -

Scout Cosmetics has just launched a brand new skincare range to compliment its hair care and mineral makeup collections.

The new range is made up of four products, the Pomegranate and White Tea Rejuvenating Crème (60ml, RRP: $59.95), the Six Oils of Rejuvenation anti-oxidant treatment (25ml, RRP $49.95), the Lemon Myrtle and Papaya Cleansing Crème (125ml, RRP: $39.95) and the Daily C Plus Treatment Gel (60ml, RRP: $44.95).

All products work together to restore, maintain, preserve and protect the skin. For more information on the range visit www.scoutcosmetics.com

Sylvie xx

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Whether it’s sun, sand swimming or skiing - use a broad-spectrum sunscreen by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
26 Aug 2011 | 0 Comments

Some friends and I were lucky enough to enjoy a skiing weekend recently in glorious Mount Buller in the Victorian Alps.

While watching all the children whizzing around during an absolutely glorious sunny day, the bright reflections and glare reminded me about the impact of the elements on our skin and how best to protect it.

Without doubt, the best way to weather proof your skin is with a sunscreen - SPF 30 at the minimum.

These days most create a film light enough to wear under a foundation – I was wearing some SCOUT Mineral Powder Foundation!!

There are many quality sunscreens available - broad-spectrum formulas (meaning they shield from both UVA and UVB rays) offer the longest-lasting protection.

We all typically use sun screens during the spring and summer months but the fact is these products are important all year around.

Most women I know spend a lot of time outdoors and the skin still needs protection even though the temperature maybe cooler.

Prematurely ageing skin is often caused by the accumulation of the sun’s effects. This is why protection is absolutely essential.

For days when you'll be outside for an extended period of time, reapply generously every two hours. It can be a pain but worth every second of effort.

And if you know your skin is well protected, it easier to enjoy the sun, sand, swimming and skiing.

Sylvie xx

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The Ten Best Antioxidant Products for Your Skin by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
23 Aug 2011 | 0 Comments

SCOUT Cosmetics Six Oils of Rejuvination has been featured on cutting edge Australian beauty, fashion and lifestyle website, Rescu

Sylvie xx

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Washing your face doesn’t need to be complicated by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
21 Aug 2011 | 0 Comments

Simple is good.

Simple is all that is required.

Investing 30 seconds in yourself each night should be achievable for everyone.

But keep a few things in mind when washing your face:

Always use a cleanser that agrees with your face - too harsh is bad. A ‘squeaky clean feeling’ means that you have simply gone overboard with cleansing.
Wash with your facial cleanser should only take about 30 seconds.
Coverage counts – ensure you work your cleanser all over your face - from the brow line, past your jaw line and up to the hair line. And don’t forget your neck and slightly below your ears as well.
Always be gentle.

If you have a preference for waterproof eyeliner and mascara, they may be more challenging to remove. But remember it is doubly important to be gentle when removing eye make-up.

I know some respected specialists who recommend double cleansing before applying moisturisers but I am not a fan.

If you think areas of your face require more attention – spot clean them carefully.

Not washing your face is a lost opportunity – not the end of the world.

But cleansing often makes you feel good after a hard day.

Just think restore - maintain - preserve - protect the skin.

Sylvie xx

Stealing a moment with Six Oils of Rejuvenation by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
19 Aug 2011 | 0 Comments

Many of us love our busy lives.

But this makes snatching moments during the day for ourselves all the more important.

And it is the small things that can be most rejuvenating.

At night, I try to incorporate a little ‘wind down’ time into my cleansing and moisturising routine.

When using my SCOUT Six Oils of Rejuvenation, I momentarily massage it into my skin and inhale the soothing aroma.

Just close your eyes for a moment, slow your breathing and relax.

Sylvie xx

Beauty Commandment - Remove Your Make-Up and Wash Your Face by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
18 Aug 2011 | 0 Comments

The SCOUT skincare mantra has always been: restore - maintain - preserve - protect the skin

I often hear women comment at SCOUT clinics that they don’t always wash their face at night.

It’s understandable. Some do not wear makeup and so do not feel the need.

Others are either too frazzled or distracted to take the couple of minutes to properly remove their make-up and wash their face before bed.

While we all have different skin and needs, often most of us find it hard to remove my eye make-up really well. It can be a real frustration.

My sense is that each of us knows, intuitively that removing your make-up and washing your face is essential for healthy skin and should not be naggingly thought of as ‘just another thing to do before I can relax’.

An old fashion reason to make it an automatic part of your pre-bedtime ritual is that cleansing and moisturising gives your skin a chance to breathe and rehydrate while you sleep.

So clearly, if you wear it, you need to remove your make-up at night so that your make-up doesn’t sit on your face and clog your pores.

Even if you do not wear makeup - but wear sun block (which I definitely recommend) or live in the city, it is important to remove the grime and polluting chemicals that we are all invariably exposed to.

We often read about ‘free radical damage’ to our skin, which is likely to contribute to early ageing and cellular damage.

Oxidation of skin cells by free radical activity may be caused by UV radiation, pesticides, air pollution, drugs, cigarette smoke, stress, and simply an unhealthy diet and lifestyle.

So you need to remove all of those pollutants before going to bed.

In formulating SCOUT Lemon Myrtle and Papaya Cleansing Crème, I was very conscious of creating a cleanser that was both gentle and effective.

Key ingredients include Papaya and Jojoba which have excellent antioxidant properties.

So surrender to the bedtime routine.

P.S. Washing your face doesn’t need to be complicated.

See my next post for a run-down on simple, effective cleansing.

Sylvie xx

What does the word Parfum on the label mean by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
19 Jun 2011 | 1 Comment

SCOUT Cosmetics uses Parfum as a preservative in its skincare collection.

Parfum is the generic name for the ingredient Naticide^®.

We believe it is currently the most ‘natural’ safe, gentle and effective preservative available to cosmetic manufacturers.

Naticide^®is a vegetable-based fragrance which also acts as a very effective broad-spectrum anti-microbial preservative.

It has the slight sent of vanilla and almond and can inhibit growth of bacteria, mould and yeasts. It is not an eye or skin irritant or a skin sensitiser.

It is approved for use in organic skincare by Australia's largest certifier for organic products; Australian Certified Organic (ACO).

Naticide^® is a trade name owned by its manufacturer, Sinerga of Italy, and therefore not acceptable for use on a product ingredient list under International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (‘INCI’) rules.

In line with INCI requirements, SCOUT Cosmetics labels refer to Naticide^®as Parfum. Under the rules it may also be listed as 'Fragrance' or ‘vanilla & almond extracts’.

Because Naticide^® is technically a fragrance, some cosmetic companies indicate on their labels that the product is preservative-free.

While SCOUT Cosmetics lists this ingredient as Parfum, as required by INCI rules, we make no claims about our products being ‘preservative free’ and acknowledge that a synthetic vegetable based preservative ingredients, such as Naticide^®,have an important place in formulating safe, effective and long lasting cosmetics.

SCOUT also believes it would be disingenuous to refer toNaticide^®as ‘vanilla & almond extracts’ instead of parfum as this gives the connotation of a pure essential oil ingredient.

Papaya - the gentle but effective active ingredient by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
3 May 2011 | 0 Comments

Papaya is a wondersul ingredient in cosmetics.

It contains the enzyme papain, which is one of our key ingredients in our cleansing crème.

Papainis considered a very gentle exfoliant which helps to break down dead skin cells.

It softens the skin and can help smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

When the cellular waste and oil is removed you are left with a brightened complexion.

Papaya also has effective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Also known, when in sufficient concentrations, for antibacterial and wound healing abilities and to clear up skin problems, Papaya has extensively been used in medical conditions to clear the skin from abnormal skin growth and skin diseases.

Sylvie xx

Weather-proof Your Skin by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
1 May 2011 | 0 Comments

Each new season brings with it new promise, new fashion and different skin issues.

It is important to realize that with each changing season we need to update our skincare regime.

This is why it is necessary to think about skin care routines for the Autumn and Winter. The changes in temperature and the atmospherics of these seasons can affect the equillibrium of our skin. However,it is more likely that the skin reacts to more subtle changes which can produce negative effects on colour and texture.

The climate in your specific area may also cause some change in your skin.

You may find the following points worth considering when looking at your beauty routine in changing weather;

Moisturisers are definitely important in Winter and Autumn

Most women think about moisturisers in the emerging warmth of spring and summer. Especially in Australia where the summer heat and strong sun dries and ‘assaults’ the skin.

However, many do not think about hydration in the cooler months.

It is definitely just as important to moisturise your skin in cool months as it is in warm ones.

The purpose of hydration and a good moisturiser is to add extra moisture to natural skin, the level of which has a lot to do with skin type, hormones and air-conditioning as well as time of the year.

Some women have particularly dry skin and need moisturizers all year around. They may find that in Winter they need a heavier moisturizer or need to boost their existing moisturizer.

Exfoliation products are also good year around

An exfoliant dislodges and removes dirt, dead skin cells and trapped oil from the skin by either chemical or mechanical means or both.

While it is tempting to put off treatments to the summer months, this is a mistake.

In fact, it is my recommendation to exfoliate once a week and also have a salon exfolianting treatment at least 3 times a year.

UV protection products are essential

We all typically use sun screens during the spring and summer months but the fact is these products are important all year around. Most women I know spend a lot of time outdoors and the skin still needs protection even though the temperature maybe cooler. Prematurely ageing skin is often caused by the accumulation of the sun’s effects. This is why protection is absolutely essential.

Sylvie xx

A little respect - being gentle with your skin by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
31 Jan 2011 | 0 Comments

How to Be Gentle to Your Skin - Potentially Irritating Cosmetics Ingredients to Avoid

One point I always emphasize at gatherings and master classes is ‘be gentle to your skin’.

And this means more than you may think.

Years ago growing up in Australia we took pride in our tans, hitting the beach and surf in summer and were certainly less aware of the irritating potential of many cosmetic ingredients.

How times have changed for the better, because whether from the sun, stress or a product, irritation and inflammation really damage the skin in the long run.

Trouble is while we are each best placed to ‘know our own skin’ we cannot always control environmental and chemical effects around us. It is sometimes not easy to effectively protect our skin from too much sun or wind, air-conditioning or smog.

How can we know if we will have a reaction to a new cosmetic product or shampoo or sunscreen?

Some women even tell me their skin seems to be getting more sensitive as they age or because of a move to a new city.

Unfortunately, it has been suggested that frequent irritation of the skin can result in the skin's immune system becoming weakened, its collagen breaking down and the skin’s outer protective layer providing less of a barrier to environmental stressors.

Sources of Irritation

I recommend exercising caution when considering the following potential sources of irritation:

Overly abrasive scrubs which contain walnut shells or pumice;
Toners and astringents containing irritating ingredients such as SD alcohol and menthol (Note: cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are safe, non-irritating, benign, waxlike cosmetic thickening ingredients);
Scrub mitts or loofahs – where a soft flannel is fit for purpose;
Very cold or hot water – be careful of steam and steaming / ice treatments or saunas;
Facial masks containing irritating ingredients (watch out for fragrances certain essential oils and alcohols); and
Simply using too many products – they may be inconsistent and incompatible with each other and cause irritation. You also simply overstimulate or smother your skin. So practice moderation.

Many factors are important when assessing the potential for cosmetic ingredients to be irritating or inflammatory. For instance, chemical concentration and interaction with other ingredients, a person’s individual sensitivity to a chemical, length of use and whether taken orally or applied to the skin.

This is why I say be careful with your skin and obtain medical advice if in doubt.

Ingredients which may Cause Irritation

Even ingredients with botanical names can cause problems as many poisons or allergens exist naturally.

The following product ingredients should be noted:

Alcohol or SD alcohol followed by a number
Eugenol
Ammonia
Fennel oil
Balm mint
Linalool
Benzyl Alcohol (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Menthol, Menthyl Acetate, and Menthyl PCA
Cinnamon
Phenol
Camphor
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Cornstarch
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Coriander
Witch hazel

Be Cautious with Treatments

I am sometimes asked if an exfoliant treatment must sting or give a tingling feeling if it is doing its job.

With the exception of a formulation with an active ingredient or which is for a specific high medical purpose such as treating severe acme or rosacea which may produce some sensation, this is not my experience and I have used some very effective products that ‘polish and exfoliate’ but do not tingle or itch.

The fact is if a product or treatment is painful I would be concerned.

Even with home use products you like, if you get slight irritation you may need to reduce frequency of application to once every other day, or reduce how much you use at any one time.

And of course stop using a product that causes persistent irritation.

Treating skin gently is good for it. It encourages normal collagen and oil production, maintains a supple and radiant surface, and helps skin protect itself from the elements.

In addition to being conscious of sun exposure, using gentle, non-irritating skincare formulations as part of a daily beauty routine is essential to healthy skin for years to come.

Sylvie xx

6 Point Skincare Guide for Girls on the Go by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
4 Jan 2011 | 0 Comments

In putting together the SCOUT Cosmetics range of mineral makeup, skincare and hair care, I reflected on the busy and eventful lives women lead in the 21^st century.

We know a disciplined and thorough beauty routine is important to having great skin but we do not always have the luxury of time or a bag of favourite products with us.

Here are some of the tips I honed travelling as a flight attendant and when there was often little time to look great:

Tip 1: Know your skin type

It may sound obvious but it is really important to know your skin type and how it behaves.

We experience many different conditions and activities which impact our skin from air-conditioned boardrooms to lap-pools to sunny sports grounds, gyms, trains, the list goes on.

Since different products will cater to different needs we need to know which products are ‘must haves’.

Tip 2: Have a simple ‘no-time’ morning skin care routine you stick to no matter what

Here's the simple, anti-aging skin care regimen I recommend when you cannot ‘go the whole hog’. It requires four products and takes about three minutes:

Morning routine – 4 steps

1. Cleanse lightly with SCOUT Papaya & Lemon Myrtle Cleansing Crème;

2. Prevent & correct with SCOUT Daily C Plus Treatment Gel;

3. Moisturise with SCOUT Pomegranate & White Tea Rejuvenating Crème; and

4. Apply sun a protection. If you will not be getting too much sun mineral foundation may be sufficient otherwise take a sunscreen with you just in case.

Tip 3: Have a basic bedtime ‘no-time’ skin care routine you stick to no matter what

Your minimal, emergency night-time routine can be extremely simple and should include the following:

Night-time routine – 3 steps

1. Cleanse SCOUT Papaya & Lemon Myrtle Cleansing Crème;

2. Moisturise SCOUT Pomegranate & White Tea Rejuvenating Crème; and

3. Boost with SCOUT 6 Oils of Rejuvenation night oil.

Tip 4: Use multi-tasking skin care products

Many SCOUT products have been designed as ‘multi-taskers’.

Sometimes it's best to have one product for each skin care need but it is equally possible to have products that keep things simple, yet comprehensive.

The following products effectively ‘kill two birds with one stone’ and are perfect for the girl on the go:

SCOUT Papaya & Lemon Myrtle Cleansing Crème cleanses and exfoliates in one;

For anti-aging prevention use SCOUT Pomegranate & White Tea Rejuvenating Crème (with vitamin c and antioxidants); and
Use a tinted moisturiser with sunscreen characteristics such as SCOUT Mineral Fluid Foundation.

Tip 5: Healthy skin from within

If you want to spend less time fussing over your skin, your goal should be to have the healthiest skin possible. The emergency routines in TIP 2 & 3 are only effective if you and your skin are healthy.

The easiest way to keep your skin healthy if you're on-the-go is to eat right and stay hydrated.

That means drinking several glasses of water a day and "eating foods that have anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties and which contain lots of anti-oxidants. Moderate alcohol and salty food as well if you find these dehydrate you when travelling or working a lot.

Your skin is a projection of what is going on inside, so obviously if you aren't eating healthfully, it shows up on your face.

Tip 6: Give your skin a rest while travelling

Many, many women over the years have told me emphatically that when travelling extensively, the dehydration and stress shows up on their skin.

Fatigue is also a factor and leads to the puffy eyed look when you reach your destination.

It is not always possible to do but to help your skin cope while travelling try not to wear much makeup on the plane and take some cleansing wipes and moisturiser to refresh and nourish. A lip balm and a bottle of water is also a must.

Sylvie xx

Do Something About Age Spots by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
21 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

Sun Spots– also called age spots, solar lentigo and sun freckles are caused by long term exposure to ultraviolet light from the sun.

Associated with sun and age is the development of the sun-induced pigment Melanin and the age-related waste pigment Lipofuscin.

Sun spots can be found on the face, hands, arms and sometimes the body and should definitely be checked by a doctor.

According to the Australasian College of Dermatologists (ACD), sun spots are extremely common in fair skinned individuals living in Australia.

When sun spots develop, it is an indication that the skin has been sufficiently damaged by the sun and there is an increased risk of skin cancers developing.

Click Here for a ACD Fact Sheet on Sun Spots

I have also heard them being referred to as liver spots but they do not typically appear just because of advancing age or have anything to do with liver disease.

What can be done about Age Spots

From a cosmetic perspective they are unsightly and may continue to appear, enlarge or darken over time.

To stop the formation of new spots, you should control the amount of time you spend in the sun, use a sunscreen and cover yourself with clothing and a hat.

And of course don’t forget the value of using a quality moisturiser to maintain the texture and suppleness of your skin.

A natural alternative to the available mainstream synthetic products is Koji Acid which is a natural by-product of sake production.

Licorice extract has a skin lightening effect and anti-inflammatory properties.

While creams and serums containing these lightening agents do not remove the pigmentation from the skin their ability to help the fading process is increasingly well reported and well worth investigating as an alternative.

There are some non-prescription treatments which may help to fade sun spots. These products typically contain alpha-hydroxy acid and hydroquinone 2%. While their safe use has been well established they are best used under professional supervision. Retin-A (tretinoin) - A prescription medication which is a higher percentage of hydroquinone can also be applied.

Also Vitamin C and Zinc PCA have been identified as active ingredients which may reduce and even prevent age spots.

There is some evidence that vitamin C in a stabilised glucosidic form prevents the formation of melanin. It inhibits Tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis, at an early stage.

Oleuropein from Olive leaves prevents the formation of the ageing pigment Lipofuscin in the skin cells and may inhibit development of age spots.

Finally, good results have been reported with laser treatment performed by a Dermatologist. Lasers which are attracted to melanin in the skin are said to actually remove the pigment of sunspots. However, as a relatively new technology the use of such treatments should be well thought through before proceeding.

Sylvie xx

What does organic mean in the world of beauty by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
15 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

This post looks at what is meant when a claim is made about a cosmetic product or ingredient is ‘organic'.

It is our belief that our clients should be free to make informed ‘eco-friendly' choices about cosmetic, skin and hair care products.

But what does organic mean and based on current evidence, is organic always superior to other ingredients or synthetic ingredients?

We are clearly philosophically drawn towards natural and organic products and applaud the emergence of uniform standards for classification and quality.

We also believe more research is required on the cost and benefit of organic products to properly inform consumers about efficacy of products they may choose. For example, questions about the sustainability, preservation and relative carbon footprint of organic production are also important.

So we believe it is essential to look beyond the marketing claims for organic cosmetics to more evidence based product descriptions and assessments. It is also important to think about whether the premium price that must be paid for a truly organic product is worthwhile and whether it will be as effective as a naturally oriented equivalent.

All SCOUT Cosmetics products utilise the highest quality naturally oriented ingredients, including ingredients which are certified organic. Not all SCOUT Cosmetics products are certified organic. For instance, SCOUT Cosmetics mineral make-up is not ‘certified organic'. As minerals are obviously not cultivated in soil, mineral make-up cannot be classified as 100% 'organic'.

The name ‘organic' has become a quite a catch phrase in the world of cosmetics and skin care along with poorly defined terms such as ‘‘all-natural' and ‘chemical free'.

While the regulation of cosmetic products round the world is quickly catching up to the popularity of organic foods and other products including cosmetics and skincare, there is no uniform definition and standard for what is organic. In fact there is competition between certification standards around the world. For example in Europe there is the NaTrue standard and new Cosmos natural and organic standard. The US has the new US standard NSF/ANSI 305 for organic products.

Australia also has multiple standards. Australian Standard AS 6000 2009 - Organic and Biodynamic Products was released recently and outlines requirements to be met by growers and manufacturers wishing to label their products as 'organic' and 'biodynamic' under the standard.

A section of the standard covers cosmetics and lists acceptable ingredients and sets out additional requirements for extraction, and processing of ingredients that may be claimed to be organic. The basic concept is that product ingredients will be grown without artificial fertilisers or synthetic chemicals and without genetically modified foods, growth promoters or hormones.

If you would like to use an organic product, you may look for the Australian Certified Organic ‘beauty logo' on the label. For example the logo, administered by the Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA), is used on certain cosmetic products containing more than 70 per cent but less than 95 per cent organic ingredients, giving authenticity to the often-seen claim - made with certified organic ingredients.

Sylvie xx

Original Post Date 16 December 2009

What does your age mean for your skin type by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
14 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

This is a tough question because while mature skin is obviously different from younger skin that is not to say that everyone in a particular age group will have the same skincare needs.

For example, a woman of any age may have blackheads, eczema, breakouts, rosacea, sensitive skin, or periodically oily skin, while a younger woman may have dry, speckled, or clearly sun-weathered skin.

So a product claiming to be specifically for mature or wrinkled skin would have to meet a lot of different needs.

Some products claim to be ‘repairing’ but are frequently too emollient and occlusive in their quest for heavy moisturisation. Similarly, those designed for younger skin are almost always not nourishing enough.

I like to use a serum on a younger skin or those in hot humid climates.

The SCOUT philosophy is that it is your individual skin which changes over your life and the actual condition of your skin that counts, not a specific skin type or universal age group.

We like to assess each other to correctly determine which products are suitable for a specific need.

However all women, regardless of age, need sun protection and antioxidants in their skincare routines.

Sylvie xx

Skin Types at a Glance by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
13 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

Skin Types at a Glance

As I have noted many times, understanding your skin is really important - its type, how it behaves and what works or does not work.

In fact being confident about ones skin type is the best foundation on which to start when working out or varying a beauty regime.

The basic skin types used in the cosmetics world are as follows. But it is a mistake to think that we all fall neatly into these need categories or that our skin will not shift between categories over time.

Oily Skin

Shiny skin, enlarged pores, prone to blackheads and blemishes, some tightness;

Combination / Normal

Medium pores, smooth and even texture, good circulation, and healthy color, may tend toward dryness on the cheeks, may be oily in T-Zone.

Sensitive

Thin, delicate, fine pores. Flushes easily, prone to broken capillaries, periodically allergic, can be a bit rashy;

Dry

Feels tight, especially after cleansing; fine wrinkles, flaking, red patches; and

Aging Or Sun-Damaged

Attributes of original skin types but can also feel tight, have visible wrinkles, slack skin tone-especially around cheeks and jaw-line - leathery texture and broken capillaries.

Your changing skin type

I believe for the vast majority of women, knowing your skin type is a simple matter that sometimes gets over complicated or misjudged. There are four reasons for this:

We are taught to ‘pigeon hole’ our skin in terms of distinct classifications as opposed to on a continuum of skin characteristics;
Our skin is on a journey during our lives and for some of us its place on the continuum can change, say between oily, dry, or blemish-prone skin;
Environmental changes can have subtle effects on how skin behaves, for example the changing seasons, and
There is an element of subjectivity in describing our own skin. One woman’s annoying slightly dry patch of skin on her cheek is major concern for the perfectionists among us.

If you are in the minority and are experiencing new or recurring irritations or you suspect you may have psoriasis, eczema or acne, a visit to the dermatologist may be a good idea.

However, in normal circumstances we are each best placed to understand our own skin. Let’s face it; we have lived with it and its nuances for a long time.

Sylvie xx

9 Beauty Myths by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
7 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

There are many myths about cosmetics and skin care.

I think many creep into our thinking because we all have different skin which may react to differently the same products or treatment.

Here are some interesting ideas I have heard over the years and come across at our gatherings but for which I have never come across much, if any, evidence:

1. Apply creams up - there is no evidence that applying face cream by stroking upwards or massaging from bottom to top will increase skin tone or offset the sagging or wrinkling of skin.

Gravity will always win and the skin will simply return to the former position once unsupported;

2. One can shrink pores with an astringent or by washing with cold water – it is better to accept your skin texture and structure than try to change it - because you can’t.

The size of pores will not change meaningfully or permanently and it is better to concentrate on effectively exfoliating your skin with a gentle active ingredient such as an alpha hydroxy acid. This will keep the pores from clogging and looking more obvious;

3. Eye Shadow should match your eye colour – Choosing colour is not rocket science but does require tasteful experimentation and risk taking.

If you think in terms of contrast instead of matching there is a much greater opportunity for creating a new striking look and creating interest. For example – violet with blue eyes. Rules are made to be broken and you will know from people’s reactions if your colour choice is a fashion hit or miss;

4. Hair grows thicker and faster if cut frequently – cutting your hair often may make it look better (and you feel fabulous) but will not impact its growth. Hair fibres grow from the root and there is no feedback mechanism between the ends which get cut telling the roots it’s time to spring into action and grow a hair.

5. Repeat shampooing then condition – There is absolutely no need to wash your hair twice to get it clean. In fact doing so will likely strip your hair of its natural oils which are necessary for its health, brightness and shine. Frequency of washing can lead to damage to the hair cuticles which cannot be repaired but only grown out.

6. Toner is essential for clean skin. A toner is refreshing, but it shouldn't be used over the long-term. Toners can be divided into various categories depending on strength. Lighter toners refresh the skin with citric acid with the objective of balancing the pH of the skin. Heavier toners may contain a small quantity of alcohol or astringents that may be abrasive.

I believe a cleanser is all that is needed for clean skin. Depending on your skin type toners may be unnecessary or in fact irritating. A dry skin should not require a toner after cleansing.

7. You should drink at least three to eight glasses of water a day for health skin. Hydration is critical to our health. However, when it comes to your skin it is water retained in your body and that reaches where it is needed that counts not the amount you may drink.

It is unlikely that drinking water but not using a moisturiser will lead to better hydrated skin. This is why it is recommended that we ‘eat water, not just drink it’ by eating plenty of raw fruits and vegetables, which will also have essential anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory properties.

8. Water resistant sunscreens last all day at the beach – this one concerns me and I do not recommend you chance it. In fact you may have noticed sun products no longer use the expression ‘waterproof’. Sunscreens have become quite sophisticated but they typically advise reapplying periodically especially if you are swimming or playing sport.

9. Natural ingredients are always better than synthetic – I believe this is the wrong way to look at cosmetic ingredients as in reality there is no cosmetics ‘all or nothing’ approach.

The SCOUT Cosmetics philosophy is naturally oriented because we believe naturally sourced ingredients are often effective and make the best products (see Blog Post - Natural Versus Synthetic Ingredients).

While it is true that the biological effects of a particular chemical are the same whether it is isolated from natural sources or synthesised in the lab, many synthetics are not identical to the chemically similar natural ingredient (e.g. preservatives) and may be either unnecessary additions or simply cheaper in mass production. On the other hand, many natural ingredients can be toxic.

The bottom line is a product's virtues depend on whether the ingredients are proven safe and effective by comprehensive testing and whether the strength and delivery are appropriate.

Sylvie xx

Beauty from Within - Can a pill give you great skin? by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
2 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

Can a pill give you great skin?

There has been a lot of excitement in parts of the cosmetics world and media coverage of the so-called ‘Beauty from Within’ phenomenon, and the potential benefits of diet and supplements on healthy skin.

And with summer approaching many of us are back at the gym or thinking about what we should be eating and drinking.

But is ‘Beauty from Within’ a breakthrough in skincare or simply a new way of packaging the basics of a healthy lifestyle?

Our philosophy has always been that moderation is important and a common sense approach to a healthy ‘fad free’ diet is the way to go. So while supplements can help replace what may be missing from your day to day diet, we would give the bird's nest soup or ginseng a miss as part of a beauty regime.

And given many of the best foods thought to promote healthy skin also promote good health overall, it makes sense to not overly focus on specific foods for healthy skin but to concentrate on a healthy diet in general.

Another issue with ‘Beauty from Within’ is that the research evidence on the best foods for healthy skin is a bit hit and miss and far from conclusive. Differences in our individual metabolisms, our capacity to absorb nutrients contained in foods and how they actual lead to better skin are complexities we are yet to fully understand.

So while the idea that what you eat affects the condition of your skin seems to make sense, few if any studies have shown a clear link between diet and skin conditions.

Still, according to Mayo Clinic dermatologist Dr Lawrence Gibson, antioxidant-rich foods seem to have a protective effect for the skin.

The following have been noted as skin-friendly foods:

Carrots, apricots and other yellow and orange fruits and vegetables;
Blueberries;
Spinach and other green leafy vegetables;
Tomatoes;
Beans, peas and lentils;
Fish, especially salmon; and
Nuts.

Unfortunately, some foods are also thought to be associated with skin damage. For example, it has been suggested that a diet high in fat, also and carbohydrates promotes skin aging. And of course alcohol can have a toll and smoking is definitely out.

As Gibson suggests;

‘Drink plenty of water. Eat more fruits and vegetables. Trade red meat for fish. Choose low-fat or fat-free dairy products. Include nuts, seeds and beans in your favourite meals. Opt for whole-grain breads and pasta. Limit sweets. Strive for variety as you're making healthy choices’.

Unfortunately we cannot simply take a pill to have great skin. No yet!

Diet is critical to our health but a holistic approach to skincare, including a beauty routine using a quality cleanser, moisturiser, exfoliant and sun screen is really important.

Sylvie xx

You Choose - Active Ingredients in Natural Skincare by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
1 Dec 2010 | 0 Comments

I am often asked about active ingredients contained in skincare formulations.

People have been led to expect that that the best cosmetic products contain a ‘killer ingredient’ that makes all the difference.

While not ‘miracle ingredients’ Alpha Hydroxy Acids (‘AHA’) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (‘BHAs) have been known as active skincare ingredients with effective exfoliation properties for many years.

An exfoliant dislodges and removes dirt, dead cells and trapped oil from the skin by either chemical or mechanical means or both.

AHAs are active ingredients such as Citric Acid and are used in moisturising creams, treatment facial creams, cleansers and face masks or peels.

It is now well established that the use of AHA’s, in combination with a well planned beauty routine, leads to long-lasting improvement to the appearance of skin.

Their use aims to minimise fine lines, reduce skin dis-colouration and blemishes and soften the appearance of flaws while making skin more supple and its texture smoother.

While sometimes providing an almost immediate improvement to the appearance of the skin, it is when the AHAs are used consistently and over a longer period of time that results become more clearly evident.

Our new SCOUT Lemon Myrtle & Papaya Cleansing Crème contains a number of AHAs chosen to provide gentle yet effective exfoliation including citric acid and papaya

I often hear woman simply say the overall texture of their skin becomes ‘smoother and younger looking’ after just a few weeks.

What are alpha hydroxy acids?

AHAs are naturally occurring in the form of weak organic acids in the sugars of milk, fruits and plants.

The most commonly used AHA used in skincare products are:

Citric Acid - derived from citrus fruits such as orange, pineapple, papaya, lemon, lime
Glycolic Acid - derived from sugar cane
Folic Acid - derived from vegetables and fruits such as blackberries
Lactic Acid - derived from milk and yoghurt
Malic Acid - derived from apples
Tartaric Acid - derived from grapes

How do alpha hydroxy acids work in skincare?

AHAs are highly effective in anti-ageing skincare products as they penetrate deeply into the skin.

An AHA’s ability to improve the skin’s texture and appearance is due to the small size of its molecules, which are tiny enough to penetrate the top layer of the skin and access the lower layer.

The exfoliation process causes the cells of the top layer of the skin to soften so that dead cells become displaced and also gently lift away dry and rough skin from the surface.

I recommend that only one product featuring AHAs be used as part of a beauty regime unless directed by a dermatologist.

A quality cleanser containing AHAs is a simple and effective way to achieve exfoliation and smoothing prior to applying moisturiser.

Following up with moisturisers, serums and oils that are highly nourishing, regenerative and hydrating should complement the work of the AHAs.

A balanced approach to active ingredients

We should always be gentle and respectful of our skin.

There are no quick fixes in skincare and the discipline of a daily regime is required.

AHAs are safe but due to varying concentrations and strengths some caution is required. Products with a disproportionate active ingredient concentration, which is out-of-balance for the purpose, should be avoided.

When seeking specific high powered skin treatments such as facial peels, always consult a qualified and experienced professional to ensure that the quality of the product and the method of application is both effective and safe for your skin.

The best beauticians and aestheticians will be happy to answer any questions or concerns about treatments and other less invasive treatments.

Also be aware that while some exfoliant formulations may contain ‘natural extracts’, the high concentration of an isolated synthetic active ingredient, used presumably for quicker more immediate results, should make one question how natural a product really is?

A natural skincare product should be holistic with ingredients which work in concert. Not a formulation with some natural ingredients the effects of which are drowned out by the excessive use of a synthetic active ingredient.

Sylvie xx

Laughter lines, crows feet and folds - What to do with wrinkles by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
25 Nov 2010 | 0 Comments

Oh how we all wish that there was a fountain of youth, but there isn’t.

Some of the wrinkles on our faces are a natural and inevitable part of aging. There are many different names and theories about wrinkles but the following classifications are a good starting point. The basic difference relates to size (depth and breadth) and cause (genetic and environmental).

1. When we talk about Fine Lines we mean the shallow threadlike lines on the face that are almost parallel to each other. They show up in different areas of the face and body but they tend to disappear when skin is stretch or extended. So they disappear when we change our expression or posture.

These wrinkles are associated with loss of skin elasticity due to an underlying loss of collagen. Strategies to minimise fine lines include minimising sun exposure and a beauty routine which includes moisturisers to temporarily plump the skin and diminish the appearance of these subtle lines. More drastic strategies include micro-dermabrasion treatments, or so-called laser skin rejuvenation techniques.

2. Permanent Elastic Creases or Static Wrinkles are deeper crumple like fold lines in the skin that become increasingly permanent over time, especially with prolonged sun exposure poor nutrition, or from prolonged dynamic wrinkling. The lines resemble the weathered pattern of fast drying earth. They show up most frequently on the cheek, the upper lip, and the base of the neck. And are visible without muscular contraction.

Smoking and UV exposure makes this type of wrinkle worse and both should be avoided.

3. Dynamic Expression Lines or ‘laugh lines’ are caused by facial muscle contraction. Common examples include ‘frown lines’ and ‘crow’s feet’. They appear between the eyebrows, across the forehead, and on the cheeks near the corners of the eyes. These wrinkles respond temporarily to dermal injections such as Botox injections or similar therapeutic approaches that may weaken these facial muscles.

4. Gravitational Folds are broader deeper lines caused by the effects of gravity and they become increasingly obvious as skin begins to fold and sag. The location of these wrinkles is related to the thickness of skin. Surgical skin-lifting procedures are effective at removing these kinds of wrinkles.

You may also hear about ‘dangling wrinkles’ which are very similar to folds. They are caused by a combination of gravity and a loss of elasticity and collagen. A facelift or mini facelift is the main option.

Unfortunately, wrinkles are a reality of life. Gravity, natural UV radiation and our genetic makeup act together to create them.

While surgery is certainly an option in extreme cases I believe a combination of self acceptance and effective skincare is a wiser choice.

This starts with a great moisturiser and protecting your skin from harsh environmental factors.

In fact adopting a skincare regimen and sticking with it will help you to avoid most wrinkles and other skin damage for years to come.

Sylvie xx

Antioxidants In Skincare For Younger Looking Skin by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
10 Nov 2010 | 0 Comments

Many of us are familiar with so-called antioxidant in cosmetics.

This blog provides an update on the efficacy of antioxidant formulations in combating the effects of free radical damage.

While we do not yet thoroughly understand the scientific ‘how and why’, it is now fairly clear that free-radical damage is bad for the skin.

Free radical oxidation is the basis of the aging process because it causes permanent deterioration of the skin cell’s support structures, decreasing elasticity and resilience.

Cosmetic ingredients that act as antioxidants are thought to diminish or neutralise the impact of free radical damage by slowing down or blocking oxidation within a skin cell.

SCOUT Cosmetics Moisturising Face Cream contains a number of antioxidant rich extracts and botanicals including Olive Leaf, White Tea and Pomegranate extracts, and Vitamin E and Cocoa Butter.

What is Free Radical Damage?

Oxidation caused by free radical processes operate at the level of atoms or molecules that make up skin cells.

Oxidation of skin cells by free radical activity may be caused by UV radiation, pesticides, air pollution, drugs, cigarette smoke, stress, and simply an unhealthy diet and lifestyle.

They are formed when an oxygen atom loses an electron. The loss of the electron makes the atom or molecule electrically unstable. To regain stability, free radicals tend to capture electrons from the atoms of surrounding substances in a chain reaction that continues until stopped by an antioxidant.

These free radicals attack and damage healthy cells, such as those contained in our skin. The overall result is cellular damage, alterations in the structure of the cellular membrane, and decreased skin elasticity and pliability.

As one would expect, sun and UV ray exposure intensifies the oxidation process and free radicals accumulate which over time leads premature ageing, sun-spots, blemishes, wrinkles and overall damaged and dry skin.

While the body has its own natural mechanism of protection from free radical induced damage, this protective capacity diminishes with age and when the body is exposed to conditions where the magnitude of free radicals formed overtakes the body's natural ability to neutralise them.

What do Antioxidants do?

It is believed that antioxidants in skincare are capable of penetrating into the deepest layers of skin tissue. Some experts believe antioxidants enable living skin cells to repair and renew. The end result is skin that looks and feels younger.

In theory antioxidants prevent the unstable oxygen molecules from interacting with other molecules (taking one of their electrons) and consequently causing them to become unstable, the process that starts the free-radical-oxidisation chain reaction.

Other reported benefits of attributed to antioxidants in skincare are:

Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time by making skin appear plump, supple and renewed’
Improve the tone of the skin by making it appear firmer and more vibrant;
Reduce inflammation of the skin and helping the skin to look and feel healthy and luminous; and

The Best Antioxidants

Ingredients with antioxidant properties include:

Olive Leaf
Pomegranate
Rosemary
vitamins A, C, and E;
green and white tea;
glutathione;
beta carotene;
selenium;
coenzyme Q10; and
zinc

What is the evidence from Cosmetic Science?

As is often the case cosmetic science is some way off fully understanding the processes involved in free radical formation and the benefits of antioxidant formulations.

Theoretically wrinkles and an aging appearance result when the free-radical damage originates from natural environmental factors and fails to be ‘cancelled out’ by some amount of metabolic or applied antioxidant protection.

When thinking about topical preparations it is important to consider factors regulating the impact of the skincare product including ability to penetrate the skin, amount of an ingredient required to be effective and the time it takes to be effective.

None of us expect antioxidants to be a fountain of youth.

It is too early to say conclusively from the scientific evidence that antioxidants prevent or repair wrinkles.

However it is now generally accepted that the use of a quality antioxidant moisturiser, oil or serum as part of a daily beauty routine, is likely to reduce the impact of free radical damage.

The benefits of using a sun screen and simply being gentle with your skin in terms of environmental exposure have been well established.

So it is definitely worth making the effort now!

Sylvie xx

Preservatives in Skin and Hair Care by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
1 Nov 2010 | 0 Comments

Preservatives in Skin & Hair Care – Naturally Oriented Alternatives

I have always taken a common sense and evidence based approach to product ingredients which must be effective but not potentially harmful or simply unnecessary.

Preservatives are an essential ingredient in skin and hair care products and I am cautious when I see a product that claims to be preservative free. The fact is water, oils, emulsions and peptides that make up all cosmetic formulations are very prone to microbial activity.

SCOUT Cosmetics products use naturally derived and synthetic vegetable based preservatives, supplemented by essential oils and extracts which have anti-oxidant properties, and do not contain any of the mainstream chemicals about which concerns have been raised such as parabens.

For example our shampoo contains the following natural preservative system; Natocide ® - Parfum (vegetable based organic broad-spectrum preservative), Citrus Seed extract, Lavender oil and Potassium Sorbate.

To date research studies do not emphatically link mainstream chemical preservatives with an increased incidence or specific causes of cancer as sometimes claimed.

However the doubts about safety expressed by well respected scientists and doctors such as the David Suzuki Foundation and US Doctors Michael Roizen and Mehmet Oz are enough to make one cautious and perhaps choose a naturally oriented alternative.

Natural Alternatives

So while preservatives are essential, there are a number of naturally oriented products that are effective and utilise preservative systems that have very low or negligible potential toxicity. The list is growing and some examples include:

Potassium sorbate is a mild, non-toxic and non-sensitising preservative. It is approved by Australian Certified Organic (‘ACO’) for use in organic skincare products. It is mainly utilised as a food preservative, but is commonly used in organic and natural skincare products. It inhibits moulds and fungus and many bacteria but is best combined with another preservative.
Naticide® is a vegetable-based fragrance which also acts as a very effective broad-spectrum anti-microbial preservative. It has the slight sent of vanilla and almond and can inhibit bacteria, mould and yeasts. It is approved for use in organic skincare by ACO.

Note: Our labels list Naticide® as Parfum. Naticide® is a trade name and not acceptable for use on a product ingredient list under International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (‘INCI’) rules. The correct INCI name for Naticide ® is 'Parfum' or 'Fragrance'.

Citric Acid is an Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (‘AHA’) with good exfoliant properties. It is also used as a preservative and PH balancing ingredient. It is found in a variety of fruits and vegetables, but it is most concentrated in lemons and limes. It also acts as an effective antioxidant.

The following naturally derived ingredients can be used to supplement the efficacy of the above preservatives:

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C);
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Grapefruit Seed Extract
Tea Tree Oil
Rosemary
Thyme

Most natural ingredients are antioxidants with preserving properties. They do not have broad spectrum bacterial properties and so must be used with a purpose built preservative.

Sylvie xx

Why face creams are different to hands creams by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
5 Sep 2010 | 0 Comments

I am sometimes asked what is so special about facial moisturisers and whether body or hand lotions can be used instead.

My answer is always an absolute no, unless it is an emergency.

It is true that face and hand creams may share some of the same basic ingredients but their functions are significantly different.

SCOUT Rejuvenating Moisturiser contains specially selected extracts, botanicals and oils specific to the needs of our face.

Creams for the face require different formulations to hand lotions for a number of important reasons including:

1. As you would expect the physiology of the skin on hands and face are different - skin is very thin on your face and thicker on your hands. Also, your hands tend not to develop acne or blemishes and have different needs, whereas face creams need to be non-comedegenic so pores remain free;

2. Hand lotions need to be much stronger and moisturising because the hands get rougher treatment than your face. The level of hydration required is different for hands and face as we wash and dry our hands many times a day, often with harsher detergents when compared to facial cleaners. While the skin of our hands is thicker and tougher, it also gets a lot more work exposure to the elements. Making them much dryer or even cracked; and

3. Our aesthetic expectations for the hands and face are different. For example, you may want to reduce fine lines around your eyes but this isn't usually the case for your hands.

Basically, you need to use products designed for the special purpose and which suit your individual skincare needs:

Face creams should be light, non-comedogenic and contain antioxidants to achieve gentle hydration and rejuvenation; and
Hand creams should be heavier barrier creams designed to protect from harsh conditions and frequent washing.

Sylvie xx

Natural and Synthetic Ingredients by SCOUT Cosmetics
in Ask Sylvie about the SCOUT Skincare Collection
14 Jul 2010 | 0 Comments

This SCOUT Cosmetics blog post seeks to put into context the confusing issue of ‘natural' and ‘synthetic' ingredient claims in relation to cosmetics.

When choosing a product, we recommend that you always read the label whether the product is a traditional or naturally oriented cosmetic or beauty care product. It is especially important to read the fine print where a product claims to be ‘all natural' or ‘chemical free'.

Remember, simply stating a product is "natural" does not tell you anything useful about the effectiveness of the ingredients contained in a product.

SCOUT Cosmetics has a ‘common sense' balanced approach to the choice of ingredients and formulations.

Our products contain the highest grade of minerals and where we add ‘botanicals' or extracts we have chosen to use only certified organic where possible.

There are a large range of natural ingredients available that are truly exceptional for the skin.

At SCOUT Cosmetics we certainly utilise naturally oriented ingredients wherever possible but recognise that certain well chosen and systematically researched ‘synthetically derived' ingredients may be equally beneficial and have a limited place in creating safe, effective long lasting products.

Certain ingredients that are claimed to be ‘natural' may not be suitable for use in cosmetics or once processed may lose their beneficial ‘naturalness'.

Ingredients that are claimed to be ‘natural' may be not suitable for use in cosmetics or not as ‘naturally oriented' as generally suggested. There are situations where a ‘synthetic' ingredient is the only effective choice, where it is the safest or where the ingredients claimed to be natural may not be what they appear.

Underlying our ‘common sense' approach is our desire to assess claims on the available evidence. Unfortunately the word ‘natural' has become a cosmetic industry buzz word and marketing ‘hook'. Many claims about natural ingredients being efficacious may be sincere and well meaning but overreach their factual or scientific basis.

We believe there are clearly many beneficial naturally oriented ingredients for skin. However we should also be aware that because an ingredient ‘grows out of the earth' or is found ‘in nature' doesn't make it automatically good for skin or non-toxic. In practice, the reverse may also true. Because an ingredient is synthetic does not make it automatically bad for you.

In many cases it is not the whole natural product, such as a fruit, vegetable or plant that has a benefit for the skin or makes the product effective but some small component. Consequently an extraction process is required which may in itself cause the target extract to synthesise to some extent.

It is also important to acknowledge that the natural ingredients with a cosmetic product require ‘stabilisation' with a preservative to ensure their longevity. Typically plant-based preservatives have poor anti-microbial or anti-fungal properties within cosmetics. It is therefore necessary to utilise an alternative preservative but one that is safe, well researched and human skin compatible.

So while the simple idea that natural ingredients are better than synthetic ingredients resonates with the SCOUT Cosmetics approach and philosophy it is not a claim to be taken on face value and not a sole reason to choose a particular cosmetic.

Sylvie xx