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• SCOUT Cosmetics Powder Foundation
• Scout Cosmetics Mineral Eye Shadow

What is Mineral Makeup?

Mineral makeup is made of very finely ground and refined natural minerals (also called fine miniature rock crystals) sourced from the earth such as titanium dioxide (TiO₂), zinc oxide (ZnO), Boron Nitrate (BN), iron oxides, mica and gold.

Unlike more traditional products, mineral makeup is generally fragrance-free and typically excludes the major contemporary chemicals, dyes, and preservatives.

In authentic mineral makeup the mineral ingredients will be listed first on the ingredients list as they are the major ingredients. Importantly, genuine mineral makeup will contain no talc (also known as soapstone). 

Most mineral brands have an in-built sun protection factor of at least SPF15 which we would recommend  be used only as a complement to an appropriate sun screen.

Whilst traditional makeup formulations also includes minerals to some extent, unlike mineral makeup they may also include fillers, talc (a mineral), artificial fragrances, binders, synthetic dyes, parabens or other preservatives.

Most allergies and intolerances to traditional makeup is a reaction to these parabens, talcs, synthetic fragrances, binders, dyes, and preservatives.  So common sense should suggest that any makeup that eliminates these should eliminate some of the related problems.

Moreover ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are reported to have anti-inflammatory properties and are common ingredients in traditional sunscreens.

Mineral makeup is also generally non-comedogenic which means it tends not to clog pores and may therefore reduce aggravation of acne or rosacea conditions.

 History

 As a ‘visual species' our physical appearance has played a significant role in human affairs across cultures and time.

Cosmetics including refined mineral and organic based makeup have a very long history.

For example, we know mineral makeup dates back to the times of Cleopatra.  The Egyptians used naturally occurring minerals not only as protection from the harsh sun and elements but in the pursuit of ‘divine beauty'. Being beautiful by the standards of the day was thought to ‘bring one closer to god'. It was customary to underline the eyes with dark Kohl, an antimony sulfite, or the green copper carbonate Malachite to create the distinctive ‘almond shape Egyptian eyes we associate with the pharaohs.

It is believed cosmetics were a notable part of daily life in ancient Greece and Rome.  makeup and skin preparations were used more for social status and vanity than for spiritual reasons. A complexion free from the ravages of the sun was a sign of status and wealth. Preparations of olive oil, charcoal and honey were used to adorn the eyes. Redding combined with bees wax created a basic lipstick.

In more modern times zinc oxide has been used to create a pale complexion to signify a non-working class status. Tanned skin indicated ones involvement in physical labour and a lower social status. Powders and creams were developed to whiten the skin and hair.

However, it was during the 20^th century that cosmetic chemists started to create purer forms of what we now call ‘mineral makeup'.  In the 1970's formulations became more sophisticated and popular. Beauty industry folklore suggests mineral based products had a  resurgence in San Francisco in the midst of the ‘peace and love' movement.

Interested in the history of makeup, perfumes and cosmetics - further reading

• The Secret of Scent: Adventures in Perfume and the Science of Smell by Luca Turin 2007
• Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez 2008

Which minerals are used in mineral makeup and why?

Minerals used in mineral powders are ‘inorganic', which from a technical perspective is defined as without carbon molecules. Carbon compounds are the basis for all living organisms and so ‘inorganic' compounds are considered to be of non-living or of mineral origin as opposed to of biologic origin.  

Importantly the inert quality of minerals removes the risk of bacterial contamination. This is in contrast to organic substances, classified as those which contain carbon and therefore requiring stabilising preservatives to prevent decomposition, contamination and to lengthen shelf life.

Minerals formulated in cosmetic powders are refined, purified and safe. They are not used directly from the earth. In fact some are entirely manufactured under exacting clinical conditions. Most minerals such as zinc go through an extensive refining process and should be classified as inorganic compounds. Others such as iron oxides used for mineral cosmetics are completely synthesised to avoid the heavy metal contamination found in nature.

Authentic minerals have no relationship to mineral oil, which is a liquid petrolatum compound and a by-product of petroleum refining.

Because of their non-occlusive properties, the main minerals used in mineral makeup are beneficial to acne and rosacea sufferers because they are ‘photo-protective', water repellent, non-comedogenic, innately antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and concealing.

Mineral makeup is often favoured over other makeup foundations by those suffering inflammation or erythema following chemical peels and laser resurfacing and irritation caused by acne. 

Titanium Dioxide - is found in the minerals rutile (beach sand) and anatase (a naturally occurring crystalline form of titanium dioxide, TiO₂) and is a naturally occurring oxide of titanium. It is not used unprocessed because it reacts with light. To make it effective and beneficial, titanium dioxide is surface processed to remove oxidation and to increase its ability to deflect ultra violet rays. Used as an active ingredient in sunscreens, it is anti-inflammatory and provides broad coverage to the skin.

Zinc Oxide - Manufactured from the mineral Zincite, (a red to yellow-orange zinc ore, ZnO) is a pure white mineral known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties and is approved as an active ingredient in sunscreen. It is used in vitamin supplements, the treatment of burns and skin irritations and as a pigment.

Mica - While mica is naturally occurring, currently all mica used in cosmetics is manufactured. Mica is used in large particle sizes to provide shimmer or in smaller particle sizes to render it matte and absorbent to the benefit of users with oily skin. It is also often used as a colourant.

Iron Oxides - or ferric oxide (a dark-red, crystalline, water-insoluble solid, Fe₂O₃₎ is a naturally, occurring mineral in the form of a hematite and commonly known as rust. It is primarily used as colourants. All iron oxides used in cosmetics are required to be synthesised in a laboratory under strict processes. Iron ore is not used directly from nature due to its heavy metal content.